A successful terrarium starts with plants that enjoy the same conditions and stay manageable in a small space. These ten picks are suited mainly to humid, enclosed terrariums, from colorful Fittonia to ferns and mosses; the guide also explains what to consider if your container is open, how to keep growth under control, and how to avoid common moisture and light problems. It is for beginners choosing their first plants as well as terrarium keepers looking for specific species to add.
Fittonia (Fittonia albivenis)
Fittonia, often called nerve plant, is a compact tropical plant with oval leaves traced by bright white, pink, or red veins. It appreciates the steady humidity of a closed terrarium and indirect light, while direct sun can heat the glass and scorch its foliage. Its stems can spread and become leggy, so pinch them back when they reach the lid or crowd neighboring plants; the cuttings can often be rooted in the same moist environment.
Baby Tears (Pilea depressa)
Pilea depressa has small, rounded leaves on fine trailing stems, making it useful for softening the edge of a planting or covering a patch of substrate. It grows quickly when it has consistent moisture, warmth, and bright indirect light, which makes it a satisfying choice for a humid terrarium but also means it needs regular trimming. Plant it where you can reach it, since a dense mat can creep over slower-growing plants and obscure the soil surface.
Baby’s Tears (Soleirolia soleirolii)
Soleirolia soleirolii is another small-leaved groundcover, sometimes sold as mind-your-own-business or angel’s tears; despite the similar common name, it is a different species from Pilea depressa. Its delicate stems form a low, lush carpet in a consistently moist, humid setting, and the fine texture contrasts well with larger leaves. Give it room to spread and thin it when necessary, because it can fill a small container rapidly and may suffer if the substrate stays stagnant and waterlogged.
Ripple Peperomia (Peperomia caperata)
Ripple peperomia is valued for its deeply grooved, heart-shaped leaves, which can be green, red, or dark burgundy depending on the variety. Its compact rosette gives a terrarium a bolder focal point than tiny groundcovers, and it generally prefers bright, indirect light rather than harsh sun. It needs moisture in the air but does not want its roots sitting in saturated soil, so use a loose, well-draining mix and water sparingly when the substrate is already damp.
Oakleaf Creeping Fig (Ficus pumila ‘Quercifolia’)
This miniature-leaved form of creeping fig has tiny lobed leaves and slender stems that can trail or climb, giving a planted scene a convincing woodland look. It suits a humid terrarium and can attach to rough surfaces as it climbs, so place it where you want it to grow rather than expecting it to remain in one neat patch. Trim runners before they cover the glass or shade shorter plants, and check the label carefully: ordinary creeping fig has much larger leaves and can quickly overwhelm a small container.
Krauss’s Spikemoss (Selaginella kraussiana)
Despite its common name, Selaginella kraussiana is a lycophyte, not a true moss, and its finely divided, fernlike foliage makes a soft green groundcover. It is well suited to a humid, shaded-to-brightly-lit terrarium, but it dislikes drying out and can lose color or become crispy if humidity drops. Give it room to spread across moist substrate, then trim the edges when it starts crowding other plants; avoid letting water pool around its stems.
Lemon Button Fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia ‘Duffii’)
This compact fern cultivar has arching fronds made up of small, rounded leaflets, and its foliage can release a faint citrus-like scent when brushed. Compared with many full-size ferns, it is a more workable choice for a larger terrarium, where humid air and indirect light help keep its fronds fresh. It still grows beyond its original size, so allow space around it and remove old or crowded fronds rather than wedging it tightly against the glass.
Friendship Plant (Pilea involucrata)
Pilea involucrata has textured, quilted leaves, often with contrasting bronze or dark markings, on a low, spreading plant. Its foliage adds a larger pattern and color variation among fine groundcovers, while humid air and evenly moist—but not soggy—substrate help it grow well in an enclosed display. Pinch back the stems to maintain a compact shape, and make sure the plant is not pressed against wet glass, where poor airflow can encourage leaf problems.
Tiger Begonia (Begonia bowerae)
Begonia bowerae, commonly called tiger begonia, is a small rhizomatous begonia with patterned leaves that can be green, bronze, or marked with darker bands. It brings strong leaf detail to a humid terrarium, but it needs more attention to airflow and watering than a moss or Fittonia; constantly wet foliage and soggy roots can lead to rot. Choose a container with enough space to keep the leaves from touching the glass, and remove damaged leaves promptly.
Cushion Moss (Leucobryum glaucum)
Leucobryum glaucum forms rounded, pale green cushions that add a miniature landscape effect and contrast with leafy plants. Mosses do not have the same root system as flowering plants, so set the cushion gently on a suitable moist surface rather than burying it deeply; it needs humidity and light but should not sit submerged in water. Use responsibly sourced terrarium moss, since collecting moss from the wild may be restricted or harmful to local habitats.
How to Choose
Start with the container, because its design determines the conditions more than any single plant does. A lidded or mostly enclosed terrarium holds humidity and is usually a better match for Fittonia, Selaginella, small ferns, and other moisture-loving tropical plants. An open bowl loses water more quickly and has more air exchange; the plants in this list are not generally the right choice for a sunny, dry open arrangement. Succulents and cacti usually need brighter light, quicker-drying soil, and better airflow than a closed terrarium can provide.
Next, match the plants to the available light. Bright, indirect light near a window is often suitable, while direct sunlight through glass can raise temperatures quickly and damage leaves. A dim corner may keep plants from scorching but can leave them stretched and weak. If natural light is limited, consider a suitable grow light and observe how the plants respond rather than assuming that a sealed container needs no light.
Think about mature size and growth habit, not just how small a nursery pot looks. Trailing plants such as Pilea depressa and creeping fig need trimming space; cushion moss and compact peperomias occupy less vertical room but still need room around them for air and light. For a small container, choose only a few compatible plants and leave visible gaps between leaves. A tightly packed arrangement can look finished at first, then become difficult to prune and more prone to trapped moisture.
Finally, check moisture needs and the condition of the planting medium. Humid air does not mean roots should sit in standing water: use a draining substrate, avoid overwatering, and remove excess water if it collects at the bottom. Plants with different needs are harder to maintain together, so do not combine a moisture-loving fern with a plant that needs a dry rest. Buy healthy, appropriately sized specimens, and check plant labels because common names and cultivar sizes can vary.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I put succulents in a closed terrarium?
Usually, no. A closed terrarium traps humidity and slows evaporation, conditions that can keep succulent roots and leaves too wet. Succulents are generally better in an open container with bright light, a fast-draining growing medium, and enough airflow to dry between waterings.
How many plants should go in one terrarium?
There is no fixed number; it depends on the container’s footprint, height, and the plants’ eventual spread. Start with a small group and leave space around each plant for growth and maintenance. Overcrowding makes trimming harder and can reduce airflow around leaves.
Does a closed terrarium need watering?
It may, but not on a rigid schedule. After planting, add water cautiously and look for light condensation that clears during part of the day; constant heavy condensation or puddles can indicate excessive moisture. If the substrate becomes dry and the glass stays clear, add a small amount of water and check again.
Where should I place a terrarium?
Choose a spot with bright, indirect light, away from direct sun and heat sources. Sunlight passing through glass can overheat the enclosed space, even when the room itself feels comfortable. Rotate the container occasionally if growth leans toward the light.
Can I use moss collected outdoors?
It is safer to use moss sold for terrariums and to check that it was responsibly sourced. Wild collection may be prohibited in some places, and removing moss can disturb habitat or introduce unwanted organisms. Never take moss from protected land or private property without permission.
Final Thoughts
Good terrarium plants share the conditions your container can actually provide, and the best choices also fit its scale. For a humid, enclosed display, start with a few compact species such as Fittonia, a small peperomia, or cushion moss, then leave room for growth. Watch the light and moisture, prune before plants crowd one another, and adjust care to what the terrarium shows you.