Sewing pants shorter is a simple and effective way to customize the length of your trousers for a perfect fit. Whether you’ve bought pants that are too long or want to adjust the length to match your style, hemming them yourself saves money and ensures you get exactly the look you want. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from measuring to sewing, with tips to avoid common pitfalls.
What You’ll Need
- Pants to be shortened
- Measuring tape or ruler
- Fabric chalk or washable marker
- Scissors
- Pins or fabric clips
- Sewing machine (or needle and thread for hand sewing)
- Matching thread
- Iron and ironing board
- Seam ripper (optional, for removing existing hems)
- Pressing cloth (optional, to protect fabric during ironing)
Step-by-Step
- Try on the pants with shoes: Put on the pants with the shoes you plan to wear most often. Stand straight and have someone help you mark the desired length with fabric chalk or a pin. The hem should fall where you want it to sit—typically just above the floor or the shoe heel.
- Measure and mark the new length: Remove the pants and lay them flat on a table. Use a measuring tape or ruler to measure from the current hem up to the mark you made. Add about 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) for the hem allowance, which is the fabric needed to fold under for finishing. Mark this new cutting line clearly with fabric chalk.
- Remove the existing hem (optional but recommended): If the pants have a thick or bulky existing hem, use a seam ripper to carefully undo the stitches and release the hem. This makes for a cleaner, less bulky finish when you sew the new hem.
- Cut the excess fabric: Cut along the marked line, making sure to keep the cut straight and even. Cutting both pant legs evenly is important for a balanced look.
- Fold and press the hem: Fold the raw edge up by ½ inch (1.3 cm) and press with an iron. Then fold it again by the remaining hem allowance (usually 1 inch total), enclosing the raw edge inside the fold. Press again to create a crisp edge. Use a pressing cloth if you’re concerned about damaging delicate fabrics.
- Pin the hem in place: Secure the folded hem with pins or fabric clips all around each pant leg. Make sure the fabric lies flat and smooth, with no puckers or uneven folds.
- Sew the hem: Using a sewing machine or hand stitching, sew around the hem about ¼ inch (0.6 cm) from the folded edge. Use a straight stitch with thread that matches the fabric color for a professional look. Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the stitches.
- Press the hem again: After sewing, press the hem once more to set the stitches and make the hem lie flat. This final ironing step improves the overall appearance.
- Try on the pants again: Put on the pants to check the length and fit. Make any minor adjustments if necessary.
Common Mistakes
- Cutting too much fabric: Always measure twice and add hem allowance before cutting. Cutting too short is hard to fix.
- Uneven cutting or folding: Uneven hems cause pants to look crooked. Use a ruler and mark carefully.
- Skipping seam ripping: Sewing over bulky existing hems can make the new hem thick and uncomfortable.
- Not pressing properly: Ironing the folds before sewing helps keep hems neat and easy to sew.
- Using contrasting thread: Thread color that doesn’t match fabric stands out and looks unprofessional.
- Ignoring fabric type: Different fabrics require different needle types, stitch lengths, and handling methods.
Tips
- Use tailor’s chalk: It’s easy to brush off or wash out, so it won’t leave permanent marks.
- Work on a flat surface: Laying pants flat prevents stretching and distortion during measuring and sewing.
- Try a test stitch: On a scrap of the same fabric or inside the hem allowance, test your stitch length and tension before sewing the actual hem.
- Consider fabric type: Lightweight fabrics often need a smaller stitch length and a fine needle, while denim or heavy fabrics require a stronger needle and longer stitches.
- Use a hem gauge or ruler: A hem gauge tool helps measure and fold hems evenly and precisely.
- Hand sew for delicate fabrics: For silk or lace, hand stitching with small, even stitches prevents damage and ensures a neat finish.
- Check the pants’ grain: When cutting and folding, maintain the fabric grain direction to avoid twisting or puckering.
- Finish raw edges: If fabric frays easily, consider finishing raw edges with a serger, zigzag stitch, or pinking shears before folding the hem.
Troubleshooting
Hem too short after cutting: If you accidentally cut too much fabric, you may need to add fabric with a cuff or fabric insert, or consider buying new pants. To avoid this, always measure carefully and add sufficient hem allowance.
Uneven hem length: Lay pants flat and use a ruler to check if both legs are the same length. If uneven, unpick the stitches on the longer side and resew carefully.
Fabric puckering after sewing: This can happen if the fabric is stretched while stitching or if tension is too high on the sewing machine. Rethread the machine, adjust tension, and sew slowly, letting the fabric feed naturally.
Visible stitches on the outside (when hand sewing): Use a blind hem stitch or slip stitch to hide stitches. Practice on scrap fabric to perfect your technique.
Bulkiness at the hem: Removing the original hem before shortening helps reduce bulk. If bulk remains, try pressing the hem well and use a smaller stitch length.
Fraying edges: Finish raw edges before folding the hem to prevent fraying over time. Use a zigzag stitch, serger, or fabric glue if a machine isn’t available.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I shorten pants without a sewing machine?
Yes, you can hand sew the hem using a needle and thread, preferably with a blind hem stitch for a clean finish.
How much fabric should I leave for the hem allowance?
Typically, 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) is enough to fold under twice and sew a neat hem.
Should I remove the original hem before shortening?
It’s recommended to remove the existing hem to avoid bulky layers and achieve a smoother finish.
How do I measure the correct length for pants?
Try pants on with your usual shoes and mark where you want the hem to fall, usually just touching or slightly above the shoe heel.
What stitch length should I use for hemming pants?
For most fabrics, a medium stitch length of about 2.5 mm works well; adjust shorter for delicate fabrics and longer for heavy materials.
Can I shorten pants made of stretchy fabric the same way?
Yes, but use a stretch needle and a stretch stitch or zigzag stitch to maintain elasticity in the hem area.
What if my pants have a lining?
If pants are lined, shorten the outer fabric and lining separately, then sew the lining back inside carefully.
How do I avoid visible stitching on the outside?
Use a blind hem stitch by hand or machine, which stitches only catch a few threads of fabric and remain nearly invisible.
Can I use fabric glue instead of sewing?
Fabric glue is a temporary fix and not durable for hems that get regular wear and washing. Sewing is the best long-term solution.
Is it better to hem pants while wearing them or flat?
Measure and mark hems while wearing to get accurate length, but sew hems with pants laid flat for precision and easier handling.
By following these detailed steps and tips, you’ll be able to shorten your pants neatly and professionally, ensuring a comfortable fit and polished appearance every time.
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