Spurge weeds are low-growing, fast-spreading plants that often appear in thin, dry patches of lawn. You can remove small infestations by hand and reduce larger ones with a lawn-safe herbicide, then make the grass denser so new seedlings have fewer places to take hold. Before starting, identify the weed, check the product label if using an herbicide, and plan to work when the lawn is dry and conditions are calm.
What You’ll Need
- Gardening gloves; spurge stems can ooze a milky sap that may irritate skin and eyes.
- A hand weeder, narrow trowel, or other tool for lifting roots.
- A lawn-safe selective broadleaf herbicide, if hand removal is not practical. Choose one labeled for your grass type and spurge, and follow its label exactly.
- A spreader or sprayer if required by the product, plus eye protection and any other protective gear specified on the label.
- Grass seed or other lawn-repair materials suited to your lawn, if bare patches remain.
Step-by-Step
- Confirm that it is spurge. Spurge typically grows flat against the ground, with reddish stems radiating from a central point and small oval leaves arranged in pairs. Broken stems may release white, milky sap. Several species look similar, so compare the plant with a reliable local weed guide if you are uncertain. Avoid touching the sap, especially near your eyes.
- Choose a suitable time. Pull weeds when the soil is slightly moist, such as after light rain or watering, so roots come out more easily. For herbicide, follow the label’s temperature, weather, and lawn-growth requirements. Do not treat drought-stressed grass, and avoid windy or rainy conditions if the label warns against them.
- Remove small plants by hand. Put on gloves and use a weeder or trowel to loosen the soil beneath each plant. Lift out the whole root rather than snapping off the stems. Spurge can spread from seed, so remove plants before they flower or set seed whenever possible. Place pulled plants in yard waste or the disposal method allowed in your area; do not leave seed-bearing plants on the lawn.
- Decide whether chemical control is needed. For a few plants, careful hand-pulling is usually enough. For a broad patch or repeated growth, consider a selective herbicide labeled for spurge in lawns. Check that it is safe for your turf species, and read all directions, including limits for new or recently seeded grass. Do not use a general-purpose vegetation killer on lawn areas; it can kill the grass as well as the weed.
- Apply herbicide precisely, if using it. Wear the label-required protective equipment and measure and mix only as directed. Treat the weeds without spraying beyond the target area. Keep people and pets away for the interval specified on the label, and protect nearby gardens, trees, and water. Do not increase the dose or combine products unless the label explicitly permits it.
- Give the treatment time to work. Do not mow, water, or repeat the application sooner than the label allows. Some products need a rain-free period; others specify when watering is appropriate. Wait for the stated interval, then inspect for living plants. Remove any survivors by hand or repeat treatment only if the label permits another application.
- Repair bare soil and strengthen the turf. Once the weeds are gone and the herbicide label permits seeding, loosen exposed soil and overseed with grass suited to your region and lawn. Water new seed as directed to keep the seedbed evenly moist. For established grass, mow at the recommended height, water deeply when needed, and correct compacted or poorly drained areas. Dense turf shades the soil and makes it harder for spurge seedlings to establish.
- Monitor the area. Check the lawn every week or two during the growing season, especially after warm weather or rain. Pull new seedlings while they are small, before they produce seed. If spurge returns across the lawn, reassess turf health and the herbicide choice rather than applying product repeatedly without checking the label.
Common Mistakes
- Breaking off the top only: Stems left at the soil surface may keep growing. Loosen and remove the root system.
- Waiting until plants have scattered seed: Mature seed can replenish the infestation. Remove plants early and dispose of seed-bearing material responsibly.
- Spraying in unsuitable conditions: Wind can carry herbicide onto desirable plants, while rain or extreme heat may reduce control or injure turf. Use the label’s weather limits.
- Using the wrong product: A nonselective herbicide can leave dead patches in the lawn. Confirm both the weed and the grass type are covered by the label.
- Overapplying or treating too often: More product does not mean better control and can damage the lawn or create unnecessary exposure. Follow the labeled rate and retreatment interval.
- Ignoring the reason spurge appeared: Thin turf, bare soil, and dry or compacted spots favor weeds. Removing plants without improving the lawn may only provide short-term relief.
Tips
- Pull plants after rain, but wait until foliage is dry before applying a product that requires dry leaves.
- Work from the edges of an infestation inward, placing pulled plants directly into a bag or container to avoid scattering seeds.
- Use a selective, lawn-labeled product rather than assuming a household vinegar or homemade mixture is safe; such treatments can injure grass and may not kill roots.
- Keep a note of the product, application date, and treated area. This helps you follow any repeat-treatment limits.
- Local extension services or a garden professional can help identify a look-alike weed and recommend options suited to your turf and region.
Troubleshooting
The weeds return soon after pulling: Check whether roots were left behind and whether nearby plants have already dropped seed. Pull seedlings promptly and inspect the patch regularly. Improve turf density after removal.
Herbicide seems ineffective: Confirm the product is labeled for the identified spurge and your grass, and check that it was mixed and applied at the labeled rate. Weather, weed size, or mowing too soon may affect results. Allow the full stated response period before deciding whether a permitted repeat application is needed.
The lawn is damaged after treatment: Stop further applications, keep people and pets away as directed, and consult the product label or its manufacturer for product-specific advice. Do not try to counteract the treatment with another chemical. Once the label allows, repair dead areas with compatible seed or sod.
Milky sap gets on skin or in eyes: Wash skin promptly with soap and water. If sap reaches the eyes, rinse gently with clean water and seek medical advice if irritation continues. Follow local poison-control or medical guidance for a significant exposure.
Spurge covers a large area: Avoid indiscriminate spraying. Identify the turf species and weed, then ask a local lawn-care professional or extension service about a targeted plan that protects the grass and nearby plants.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is spurge harmful to a lawn?
It usually does not kill healthy turf directly, but it can spread over bare ground, compete for space, and make a lawn look patchy. A dense, well-maintained lawn is less vulnerable.
Can I pull spurge by hand?
Yes. Hand-pulling works well for small infestations, especially when soil is slightly moist. Wear gloves, remove the roots, and avoid contact with the milky sap.
Will mowing get rid of spurge?
No. Low-growing spurge can sit beneath mower blades, and mowing alone may leave it intact. Remove plants or use a suitable, labeled treatment before they set seed.
When is the best time to control spurge?
Remove it as soon as you notice it, before flowers and seeds form. Apply herbicides only when the product label’s seasonal, temperature, and lawn-growth conditions are met.
Can I seed the lawn right after spraying?
Not necessarily. Some herbicides prevent grass seed from establishing for a specified period. Check the product label for seeding restrictions and wait the full interval.
Why does spurge keep coming back?
New seedlings may emerge from seed already in the soil, or the lawn may have thin, exposed areas. Keep removing young plants and improve turf cover to reduce future germination sites.