Small climbing holds are essential components in both indoor climbing gyms and home walls, providing grip points that challenge technique and strength. This list covers the most common materials used to make these holds, detailing their properties and benefits. Whether you’re a gym owner, route setter, or climbing enthusiast looking to build your own wall, understanding these materials will help you choose the best holds for your needs.
Polyurethane
Polyurethane (PU) is the most widely used material for small climbing holds today due to its durability and versatility. It is a synthetic polymer that can be molded into intricate shapes with fine texture detail, providing excellent grip. PU holds are lighter than traditional resin holds and resist chipping and cracking, making them ideal for high-traffic gym environments.
Polyester Resin
Polyester resin was the standard material for climbing holds before polyurethane became popular. Holds made from polyester resin are rigid and offer great texture, but they tend to be heavier and more brittle. They can chip or crack more easily under heavy use, which is why many manufacturers have shifted to PU for small holds, although polyester resin remains popular in budget or custom holds.
Wood
Wooden holds are favored for their natural feel and ergonomic shapes, often used for training boards and campus boards. Made from hardwoods like maple or birch, these holds offer a smooth, skin-friendly surface that reduces skin abrasion over time. However, wood requires more maintenance and can be slippery when wet, so it’s less common for general climbing routes but excellent for finger strength training.
Fiberglass
Fiberglass holds are lightweight and durable, often used for large volumes but occasionally made into smaller shapes. The material allows for custom textures and colors, and its strength-to-weight ratio is excellent. Fiberglass holds can be more expensive and less common in small sizes but are prized in high-end gyms for their aesthetic and longevity.
Wood Composite (MDF or HDF)
Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) or high-density fiberboard (HDF) are engineered wood products used in budget or DIY holds. These composites are easy to machine and produce consistent shapes but are less durable than solid wood or synthetic materials. They are prone to moisture damage and wear but can be a cost-effective option for home walls with controlled environments.
Rubberized Holds
Rubberized climbing holds feature a core made from harder material coated with a thin rubber layer to enhance grip and reduce skin abrasion. These holds are less common but offer a unique tactile experience, often used in training or for beginner-friendly walls. The rubber surface can wear down faster and may attract dirt, requiring regular cleaning.
Concrete
Concrete holds are handmade or cast in molds, offering a very rough texture and high durability. While heavier and less common in commercial gyms, concrete holds are popular for outdoor home walls and training setups where a natural rock feel is desired. Their weight and brittleness limit their use in small hold designs, but they remain an option for rugged, budget-conscious installations.
3D Printed Nylon or PLA
With advances in 3D printing, some small climbing holds are now manufactured using durable plastics like nylon or PLA (polylactic acid). These materials allow for highly customizable shapes and textures with rapid prototyping. While not yet widespread commercially, 3D printed holds are gaining traction among DIY enthusiasts and boutique hold makers for unique designs.
Glass-Filled Nylon
Glass-filled nylon is a high-strength composite material used occasionally for industrial-grade climbing holds. The addition of glass fibers increases rigidity and wear resistance, making holds more durable under heavy use. These holds are generally more expensive and less common but offer excellent longevity and stability for small holds that receive intense traffic.
Natural Stone
Natural stone holds are cut or sculpted from rock types like sandstone or granite, providing authentic texture and feel. While they can be used for small holds, their irregular shapes and weight make them less practical for indoor gyms. Stone holds are mainly used in outdoor training walls or specialty setups where a real rock experience is desired.
How to Choose
When selecting small climbing holds, material choice depends on several factors: durability, texture, weight, and cost. Polyurethane dominates the market due to its balance of strength and lightness, making it suitable for most gym and home applications. Resin holds are cheaper but less durable, while wood is preferred for training due to its skin-friendly feel. Consider the type of climbing (bouldering, training, route setting), wall setup, and maintenance requirements. Additionally, texture and grip quality often matter more than material alone, so trying different holds can help determine what suits your climbing style best.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Are polyurethane holds safe for outdoor use?
Polyurethane holds are generally designed for indoor use but can be used outdoors if UV-resistant additives are included. Prolonged sun exposure can degrade some PU holds, so check manufacturer specifications.
Q: Why are wood holds better for fingerboards?
Wood holds offer a smoother surface that reduces skin wear and is gentler on fingers during repetitive hangs, making them ideal for fingerboard training.
Q: How long do resin holds typically last?
Resin holds can last several years under moderate use but are more prone to chipping and cracking than polyurethane, especially in high-traffic gyms.
Q: Can 3D printed holds support heavy climbers?
Some high-quality 3D printed holds made from nylon composites can support heavy use, but they should be tested for strength and durability before commercial or intensive use.
Q: Are rubberized holds suitable for advanced climbers?
Rubberized holds provide good grip and reduced skin abrasion but may lack the precision and variety of texture preferred by advanced climbers for complex routes.
Q: Do natural stone holds require special mounting hardware?
Yes, stone holds often need reinforced mounting due to their irregular shapes and weight, and bolt holes may need custom drilling for proper installation.
Final Thoughts
Small climbing holds come in a variety of materials, each offering distinct advantages depending on your climbing goals and environment. Polyurethane remains the top choice for most users due to its durability and versatility, while wood and resin hold niche roles in training and budget setups. Emerging materials like 3D printed plastics and glass-filled composites add exciting options for customization and performance. By understanding these materials’ properties, you can make informed decisions that enhance your climbing experience, whether building a home wall or outfitting a commercial gym.
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